Petra, the treasury carved from rock

When something is carved in rock you pay attention. Even if it’s a ‘rose’ city hewn out of sandstone. Over one million tourists now make the trek into Petra, Jordan – most on foot, although you can support the Bedouin caretakers by riding their horses, camels, golf carts or horse drawn carriages. This enduring marvel has now been voted one of the new seven wonders of the world and is a World Heritage site. After the split of Solomon’s kingdom this place became the homeland of the descendants of Esau (the Edomites).

Twenty-five of us Canadians recently traipsed the 1.2 Km through the Siq (gorge or shaft through 25-metre-high rock walls) into the heart of what was once the Nabataean capital. Some ancient lore claims that the split in the rock was caused by the rod of Moses striking and issuing water. The original nomadic Arabs who settled in this trading hub grew wealthy off the camel caravans hauling gold, frankincense, myrrh, and numerous spices. The Magi of nativity fame would have fit in perfectly into this scenario. Wine, olive wood and oil accompanied caravans moving south and east.

Petra is located in a basin surrounded by the hills and mountains flanking the eastern side of the Arabah valley running from the Gulf of Aqaba to the Dead Sea. The tomb of Aaron is in this area and Wadi Musa shows the historical tie to the presence of Moses. As one of our tour members said, “In Israel I came to understand the New Testament but in Jordan I understood the Old.” You can certainly see why the Hebrew wanderers complained for lack of water and a full water bottle is a must for this trek. Annual rainfall is less than eight inches. 

The 20,000 first century inhabitants showed skill in their collection of rainwater, in simple agriculture and in trade. The historical connection to the kingdom of Judea in the times of Jesus is strong. Fifty years before Jesus, the Idumaean Antipater – who was the son of the governor of Petra – established the Herodian dynasty and became the father of Herod the Great. It was Antipater’s rescue of Julius Caesar in Alexandria which promoted him to chief minister in Judea under Rome. When he was poisoned, Herod the Great took on the reigns of authority. Herod married his way into power by marrying the Hasmonean princess Mariamne and, through Rome’s support, took on the crown of Judea. It was Herod who tried to kill the babe in Bethlehem.

In 2 Kings 14:7 we read that King Amaziah defeated ten thousand Edomites in the Valley of Salt. Tradition says that he threw the defeated enemy from off the top of the mount Umm-el-Biyara in Petra but this is debated. The Jewish historian Josephus says that the Midianites occupied Petra during the time of Moses and that five kings ruled the area. It was a chief city among the Arabs with the name Rekeme, after one of those kings. 

In Galatians 1:17, the apostle Paul says that after his conversion he did not go up to Jerusalem but instead went into Arabia. This was his three-year seminary time with Jesus. Local guides will let you know that the caves, the theatre seating for over 8,000, and the rock walls of Petra were known as Arabia during Paul’s time. Certainly, that was it’s official name by the Roman overlords.

The flash floods in this area were harnessed by the Nabataeans with a series of dams, cisterns and water conduits. The stored water helped residents survive the long periods of drought in between rains.

Hundreds of caves mark the place of former residents and burial sites. Carved images in the rock demonstrate the pagan focus of idol worshippers. The high place for sacrifice is an 800 step climb above the theatre where libations and goat sacrifices were offered annually. The smoking of frankincense was also involved. The sacredness of this place is due to the belief that Aaron was buried in this area. 

The most famous structure – labeled The Treasury (Al Khazneh) – is believed to be the mausoleum of king Aretas IV who was the father of the first wife of Herod Antipas. It was Herod’s divorce of this woman and the remarriage to his brother’s wife which brought about the condemnation from John the Baptist. It also led to a war between Herod Antipas and King Aretas IV which brought about Herod’s downfall. The Hellenistic style tomb is 24 metres wide and 37 metres high and features carvings of the Greek gods Castor and Pollux (gods of protection for travellers). A figure of the Egyptian goddess Isis and the goddess Tyche (Greek goddess of fortune) are at the top. Hundreds of bullet holes pock mark the structure from the guns of Bedouins who once believed that the structure held untold riches.

A more recent addition features the Monastery (45 metres high and 50 metres wide). This is actually the largest monument carved from the rock. The entrance is eight metres high and is the only source of light for the structure. A colonnaded street and a garden complex were part of the intricate design of the city. The Royal Tombs, especially the Palace Tomb, is thought to be the tomb where the kings of Petra were buried. The Silk Tomb and the Urn Tomb are also featured with the Urn Tomb eventually becoming a church at the end of the Roman Empire. Other newly discovered structures in the surrounding area haven’t any clear explanation on their original purpose.

The fourth century writer, Epiphanius of Salamis, records that a feast was held in Petra on December 25 to venerate the virgin Chaabou and her offspring Dushara. Dushara is the main male deity featured in Petra while other Nabataean female deities like Allat, Al-Uzza and Manat also were recognized. Many of the idols carved into the rock walls represent these figures.

Petra is carved into the memories of travellers the world over and is well worth the excursion.